Top caps are compatible with all 1 1 8 aluminum steerer tubes.
Headset top cap torque.
Do not overtighten it.
It is non load bearing.
You will need to loosen stem then tighten this top cap slightly quarter turn or so.
Adding tension to the bolt will pull the threaded star nut which is found wedged inside the steerer tube upwards moving the fork crown race bearing more tightly into the lower headset cup.
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Then tighten stem again.
The edc cap kit includes the worlds lightest headset top cap 4 2g and an edc steerer plug with drain hole which keeps crud out of your steerer.
The edc steerer plug is required for edc tool storage and is compatible with most aluminum tapered steerer.
Same is true for the end cap on a shimano hollowtech ii crankset.
Do up the headset top cap until it is just tight at this point you should be unable to turn your stem spacers.
As others have said the top cap is pre load only.
On a custom bicycle headset cap for any type of bike.
Slide your headset spacers and handlebar stem back onto the steerer tube and put the top cap and bolt back on top of the stem and begin to preload the headset by tightening the preload bolt.
On to your problem it could be the clicking you hear is because the pre load top cap is a tiny bit loose.
I would say 5 n m is safe.
Make sure it still turns freely.
Once the stem is tightened in place is is purely cosmetic and covers the top of the steerer.
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Too tight can damage bearings.
A torque wrench is a good idea at this point.
Anything you can imagine.